Nestled in the lush nature of northern Gifu Prefecture and encircled by the Northern Alps, Hida City is a quiet place where life takes on a different meaning. Time moves slowly, guided by the seasonal breeze, and local life remains relatively unchanged, shaped by the environment and remarkable fervor of the human soul.
Incredibly, Hida is 93% forest, and its urbanized areas consist of four quaint towns—Furukawa, Kamioka, Kawai, and Miyagawa. Despite the towns’ relatively small sizes, Hida is rich in cultural heritage, featuring nationally-renowned carpentry, historical townscapes, and vibrant festivals. Nourished by its natural wealth, Hida is also blessed with delicious food, such as Hida beef and fresh vegetables, many of which grow wild on the mountains. The city’s enduring sake culture is also a point of pride.
Although the world continues to modernize, Hida retains its traditional charm, providing opportunities to explore different ways of life, relax, and fully embrace the beauty of the present.
To truly understand Hida’s wonders, we chatted with 10 residents who spun an intriguing tale about the city’s history, culture, and gastronomy.
After gathering at the Machinaka Tourist Information Center, Mr. Morishita—the president of the Tourist Guide Association—took us on a journey through Hida Furukawa’s long history.
Hida Furukawa was founded as a castle town in 1589 by Kanamori, a retainer of the prominent feudal lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. During the Edo period (1603–1868), which was a peaceful time in Japan, Hida Furukawa’s culture flourished, namely through its industries and the famous Furukawa Festival. “Hida Furukawa was different from other places in Japan,” Mr. Morishita explained, “It lacked warrior-level leadership. So, the residents were responsible for leading and managing the town.” This deep sense of town pride is still an integral part of the community.
Hida Furukawa’s current townscape is largely the same as its initial layout and showcases high-level architecture, which the Hida region has been renowned for since the Nara period (710–794). During this time, the Hida region sent workers to Japan’s ancient capitals, such as Nara and Kyoto, to help build palaces and temples—where they further refined their carpentry skills. Continuing into the 15th and 16th centuries, these master craftspeople, known nationally as Hida no Takumi, thrived in Hida Furukawa’s woodworking and lumber industries.
Today, in this quiet town free of crowds, you can admire architecture comparable to that of Japan’s past capitals. Explore Hida Furukawa’s townscape, shrines, temples, and Furukawa Festival floats.
Another architectural wonder you won’t want to miss is Hida Furukawa’s Kumo, which translates to “cloud” in English. Located under the eaves of traditional buildings, this carpentry tradition started around the 1950s and serves as a signature of the carpenter who built the structure. Hida Furukawa is home to 170 different types of Kumo, so have fun comparing the differences!
As someone born and raised in Hida, Mr. Morishita’s favorite part of living in the city is the Furukawa Festival—a sentiment echoed by many other residents. He looks forward to the festival all year and has participated in it for about 50 years, starting when he was just 15.
Towards the end of our conversation, Mr. Morishita again highlighted how special it is that Hida Furukawa’s residents are the ones who created the town’s culture, temples, and architecture. He highly recommends visiting Hida Furukawa’s three main temples—Enkoji, Shinshuji, and Honkoji—to enjoy the town’s high-level carpentry.
With a wide grin and contagious enthusiasm, Mr. Kato invited us into his 90-year-old home, where we settled around an irori (traditional sunken hearth). “I was born and raised in Hida Furukawa,” he exclaimed proudly, before launching into an excited explanation of the town’s traditions and architectural heritage.
Hida Furukawa’s townscape is largely characterized by its traditional wooden houses, complete with shoji (sliding paper screen) windows and natural materials that allow breezes to go through the buildings. “It’s all natural and good for living,” Mr. Kato shared. The tatami flooring is made of wara (rice straw), which can be disposed of naturally. Mr. Kato even showed us a pair of handmade wara sandals. Typically, each household has a small Shinto shrine dedicated to local deities for protection—including protection from fire.
Despite its Edo-period-esque appearance, most of the buildings in Hida Furukawa were built post-1904 after a fire destroyed a large portion of the townscape. Even so, Hida Furukawa recovered tremendously, thanks to the local government’s and residents’ efforts to restore the town. The roughly 400-hundred-year-old Enkoji is one of the few buildings that survived the fire.
When I pivoted the conversation to townscape preservation in Hida Furukawa, I was surprised when Mr. Kato, instead of listing government initiatives, explained how residents take care of the town. Everyone cleans the entrances of their homes daily and takes great pride in the beauty of their town. Neighbors help tidy each other’s homes, and every residence has a designated day to clean the Seto Canal. All of these beautifying measures are entirely voluntary. “From a young age, we’re taught how to clean,” Mr. Kato explained, “When I was a child, I was responsible for wiping my home’s walls and cleaning the genkan (the entryway of a home where people take off their shoes).”
Mr. Kato’s greatest pleasures are gardening—even though he struggles to grow even one vegetable—and drinking with his friends around the irori. “Life is slow here. It’s not like a city,” Mr. Kato said. He loves the clean air, water, and nature, as well as the lack of long queues at restaurants. For tourists, he recommends sake tasting, visiting Hida Furukawa’s temples, walking along the Seto Canal, and appreciating the moment.
As we were wrapping up our conversation, a fellow resident stopped by to give Mr. Kato flowers in exchange for vegetables he had given her previously. With a smile, he led me outside and pointed to the potted plants displayed in front of his house, “We leave flowers outside of our homes to help heal passersby.”
In Hida Furukawa, the Furukawa Festival (Furukawa Matsuri) is everyone’s favorite time of year. After a cold, snow-filled winter, the Furukawa Festival celebrates the coming of spring. This lively Shinto festival is held annually on April 19 and 20 and has three main parts—Okoshi Daiko (rousing drum) night parade, Yatai (festival floats) parades, and Mikoshi (portable shrine) processions. To learn more about this culturally significant event, we met with Mr. Tatsuyoshi at the Hida Furukawa Festival Exhibition Hall, which displays mesmerizing Yatai, as well as the Okoshi Daiko.
Mr. Tatsuyoshi, Hida-born, has participated in the Furukawa Festival for 15 years, starting when he was a student in junior high school. He has been a drummer for the Okoshi Daiko and Kaguratai Yatai groups and took part in the lion dance. Just this year, he was one of the Okoshi Daiko drummers and even crafted his own drum stick. “It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” he remembered nostalgically, “I drummed for 45 minutes!”
In ancient times, Okoshi Daiko only marked the start of the festival. However, over time, it became one of the largest parts of the event. In fact, 33 festivals throughout Japan have Yatai, but Okoshi Daiko is unique to Hida Furukawa.
In preparation for the festival, residents start practicing one month prior. “We practice together every day after work until 10pm,” Mr. Tatsuyoshi said, “We all motivate each other and then have drinks afterwards.”
Mr. Tatsuyoshi’s tips for enjoying the festival are to watch Okoshi Daiko and check out the different Yatai since they host a variety of performances, including kabuki, marionette shows, and noh. He also recommends that people enjoy Hida’s quality sake with locals. “I love sake,” he laughed.
If you cannot visit Hida Furukawa on April 19 and 20, be sure to stop by the Hida Furukawa Festival Exhibition Hall to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and culture of the event. “Visit an izakaya (Japanese-style bar) too,” Mr. Tatsuyoshi added, “Hida’s residents are very kind, and it is fun to try to communicate with each other despite the language barrier.”
Although the festival only occurs two days a year, it is one of Hida Furukawa’s greatest treasures. It is more than just a Shinto event—it’s a celebration of community and the deep bonds between residents.
Clothed in an elegant kimono, Ms. Kanako led us through Yatsusankan, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) with roughly 180 years of history. The tatami-floor halls and elegant Hida carpentry transported us to another era, and once again, we decided to chat around an irori.
Ms. Kanako is the ninth-generation owner of Yatsusankan and was born and raised in Hida. She lived in Tokyo for a number of years, before returning to Hida to take over the family business. “This ryokan has a long story,” she shared, “It’s a gift from past generations. So, it’s important that we preserve it and pass it on to future generations.” Presently, as she studies previous owners’ wishes, she is exploring ways to create memorable lodging experiences that best capture Yatsusankan's legacy in a way that suits the modern era.
“Today, our generation can get whatever we want,” she explained. Through the internet, we have access to unlimited information and goods. She wants the ryokan to represent the opposite, and in recent years, has started to limit the facility’s offerings. For example, she removed superfluous decorations, only displaying pieces related to the ryokan’s story. She also cut unnecessary services, choosing to instead focus on perfecting a few key offerings.
Yatsusankan’s dining experience is its most important feature. “It’s a time for friends and families to connect,” Ms. Kanako shared. The ryokan specializes in traditional Japanese kaiseki cuisine. The menu changes on a seasonal basis and showcases eight to nine dishes crafted with seasonal Hida delicacies, including spring sansai (mountain vegetables), summer river fish, autumn mushrooms, and Hida yellowtail during winter. The region’s high-quality Hida beef often makes an appearance on the menu as well.
After residing in Tokyo, Ms. Kanako gained a new appreciation for Hida’s gentle way of life. In Hida, she can feel the seasonal shifts through the aroma of flowers and the availability of seasonal vegetables. While cities like Tokyo are stimulating for young people, Hida is stimulating in a different way—preserving ways of life close to nature. As a Hida resident, she also loves the Furukawa Festival and participates as a Japanese flutist for the Kaguratai festival float—the same group as Mr. Tatsuyoshi!
Ms. Kanako recommends that tourists simply wander through Hida Furukawa, discover new alleyways, and visit the town’s sake breweries. Don’t forget to admire the flowers adorning residents’ homes as well. “The flowers reflect the beauty of people’s hearts,” she said with a smile.
At Yatsusankan, all staff members value subtle kindness, and it is Ms. Kanako’s hope that guests will feel the ryokan’s kindness and pass it on to others.
Ms. Menju’s smile was infectious as she brought us into Hida Mori no Megumi, a natural herbs shop. In a space adorned with Hida’s local plants, Ms. Menju shared her story, alongside Hida’s herb heritage.
Born in Aichi Prefecture, Ms. Menju moved to Hida Furukawa just last year after an injury left her hospitalized. “Following my recovery, I realized the importance of health and was inspired to learn more about healthy living,” she shared. Since herbal remedies are a specialty of Hida, she decided to move there. As a past urbanite, Ms. Menju was amazed by how her mental and physical health improved after living in an area blessed with fresh air, mountains, nature, and healing herbs.
Since Hida Furukawa is surrounded by mountains and deeply connected to the environment, it has long been renowned as a hub for herbal remedies—with about 250 different herbs. In the past, it was difficult for Hida’s residents to travel to a hospital, so instead, they would rely on herbs to help with minor ailments. For instance, dokudami (Chinese lizard tail) helps with colds and runny noses, and yomogi (mugwort) helps with bug bites. “Today, only older people know about Hida’s herbs,” Ms. Menju explained, “I want to preserve this culture, empower locals, and transform herbal knowledge into a sustainable practice.”
She holds workshops to teach people how to use herbs in food and cosmetics and practices Ayurveda—an ancient Indian custom that focuses on a holistic approach to well-being by balancing the mind, body, and spirit.
Hida’s herbs primarily grow wild in the mountains, and locals pick them by hand. The herbs are rich in minerals and are an integral part of Hida’s seasonal cuisine. Ms. Menju herself loves kuromoji (spice bush), which has a refreshing smell—featuring woody, floral, and citrusy notes. The aroma is known to have a calming effect that improves mental well-being. She uses it as an herbal tea, incorporates it in fragrances (like room sprays and candles), uses it in baking, adds it to baths, and even uses it as a refreshing topping for coffee.
“I recommend that visitors try menamomi (St. Paul’s Wort) when they visit Hida Furukawa,” Ms. Menju said. Since the herb has a bitter flavor, it is often paired with sweets, such as scones, cookies, and lattes. You can even find menamomi-flavored waffles at Kanokoya, a cute cafe in Hida Furukawa. Menamomi is said to act as a natural anti-inflammatory and help reduce blood clotting, which could be beneficial for cardiovascular health.
Ms. Menju loves living in Hida Furukawa. Everything is new to her, and every day is an opportunity to learn more about Hida’s culture and nature. The town is peaceful and naturally healing, leaving her feeling mentally and physically rejuvenated. As an outdoor activities enthusiast, she encourages visitors to explore Hida’s nature, such as hiking through the Ikegahara Wetlands or mountaineering.
I admired the market’s bouquets of seasonal flowers as Ms. Fukuyama and I sat down to talk. She was born in Hida and started working for the Santera Meguri Morning Market seven to eight years ago. Prior to working at the market, she used to supply her own homegrown vegetables to the establishment. “I grow corn, green onion, watermelon, and edamame,” she said with a soft smile.
The Santera Meguri Morning Market was established 20 years ago to provide working opportunities for retired residents. “It can get boring after you retire,” Ms. Fukuyama shared, “At the market, residents can sell their vegetables and talk to people.” The market earned its name, “Santera Meguri,” which means “three temples” because it was initially held in front of Hida Furukawa’s main temples. Later, the local government erected a permanent building for the market.
The market sells an assortment of special products, including seasonal vegetables, flowers, souvenirs, and handicrafts made by local women. Ms. Fukuyama passionately showed us the handmade wares, such as farming hats, small bags made from old kimono, and wara sandals. All of the products are supplied by local farmers and residents.
I was fortunate enough to visit Hida during its spring vegetable season and encountered many unique plants that I had never seen before. Since Hida Furukawa has some accommodations with kitchens, I asked Ms. Fukuyama if she could share some simple recipes that tourists could recreate with local ingredients. She recommends the following dishes:
Ms. Fukuyama’s favorite parts of living in Hida Furukawa are its picturesque townscape, natural beauty, and of course, the Furukawa Festival. Naturally, she recommends that people visit the Hida Furukawa Festival Exhibition Hall and enjoy a slow stroll through the town. “I wasn’t sure if I should say this, but I also recommend that people drink local sake,” she laughed heartily, “I love sake.”
Mr. Katsuhiko and Mrs. Miyoko Kawahashi beamed at us as we entered their soba (buckwheat noodle) shop. The married couple was born and raised in Hida and established Fukuzenji Soba about 20 years ago. “There was no soba culture in Hida,” Mr. Katsuhiko explained, “People didn’t eat soba here.” So, they decided to open a shop and learned how to make soba from a famous Fukushima soba-maker who visited Hida Furukawa. Mrs. Miyoko has been making soba for the past 15 years.
“Do you make the soba by hand every morning?” I asked incredulously. “Yes,” Mrs. Miyoko answered promptly before amending her response with a chuckle, “Well, sometimes I invite someone to help me out.”
The restaurant’s soba is made with 100% buckwheat flour from Hida, and many of the dishes feature local ingredients, such as menamomi, yomogi, egoma (perilla seeds), mushrooms, mountain vegetables, and Hida beef. The restaurant also serves soba beer, brewed at Hida Furukawa’s only craft brewery, Hida no Oku Brewery.
If you’re a first-time customer, the couple recommends Mori soba, a simple dish that allows the nutty aroma of buckwheat to shine. As for personal favorites, Mr. Katsuhiko enjoys Japanese plum oroshi soba. “It’s good for hangovers,” he laughed loudly. And Mrs. Miyoko likes Goboten Soba—a warm soba dish paired with sweet burdock tempura. “It’s a nice meal for the cold,” she said.
Although winters are rough, the couple enjoys Hida’s summers, as well as its local vegetables, beef, and sake. “I recommend that tourists try Gattan-go. I love the sound of the bike against the train tracks. Gattan. Gattan,” he mimicked the noise with a grin. This unique activity combines mountain biking and formerly used railway tracks, creating a fun way to explore Hida’s countryside.
After leaving Fukuzenji Soba with happy stomachs, we met Mr. Inomaru, the owner of Inohiro Confectionery Store. This legendary shop, established in 1908, is famous for its miso wheat crackers, called miso senbei in Japanese. Recently, Mr. Inomaru opened a small branch just steps away from the soba restaurant, so we had to stop by for a snack and chat.
Since its establishment, Inohiro has greatly diversified its products. In addition to its original recipe, which is a must-have, the confectionery also offers modern flavors, like chocolate, as well as Hida varieties, such as egoma and coffee from Kamioka.
Mr. Inomaru’s top Hida highlights are short and to the point—the Furukawa Festival and sake. When you visit, he recommends stopping by Hida’s breweries and the Hida Furukawa Festival Exhibition Hall.
Mr. Inomaru’s shop was bustling, so after crunching on some delicious crackers, we made a hasty exit.
The moment we stepped into Hida no Oku Brewery, Hida Furukawa’s traditional ambience vanished, and a chic new world unfurled around us. Ms. Shimode founded Hida no Oku Brewery three years ago. When I inquired about what inspired her to open the brewery, she responded in a matter-of-fact tone. “Well, I like beer, and my previous supervisor asked me what I would like to do in the future. I said that I wanted to make beer and then felt compelled to prove that I could do it.”
Since there was no craft beer brewery in Hida and she had a connection to the community—having spent her elementary school years there—she decided to establish her brewery in Hida Furukawa. Ms. Shimode learned how to brew through a part-time job at a brewery and since opening her business, has created 15 different flavors and roughly 250 batches of beer.
Ms. Shimode is committed to improving her brewing techniques every year and offers a constantly changing menu that balances new and repeating flavors—ensuring that her frequent customers never grow bored. If you are interested in Hida-focused brews, try the apple or kuromoji varieties (if available), which use ingredients from Hida. This summer, she also plans on making a tomato ale.
Hida no Oku Brewery has a laidback atmosphere where people across a range of ages can unwind with a beer. “I especially want to encourage women to have a casual drink,” Ms. Shimode shared. The brewery’s cute design reflects her desire to do so.
The brewery is a place for communication. “Everyone talks,” she said, “Even elderly women.” Locals love seeing foreign tourists enjoy their town’s alcohol, so it is a great place to interact with residents.
“What do you like to do in Hida?” I asked. Ms. Shimode looked at me with a subtle smile curling the corners of her lips. “Uh, I like to watch YouTube on the weekends.” After a shared laugh, she continued. “I enjoy living in a stress-free and crowd-free place near the mountains.” She recommends that tourists meander through Hida Furukawa, visit Hida’s nature—such as Mt. Ambo and Takahara River in Kamioka—and, of course, stop by an izakaya.
Taking Hida locals’ advice, we decided to end the night at Dining Shoen, an izakaya that specializes in Hida and Okinawa cuisine. Ms. Shimada opened Dining Shoen after she retired seven years ago. She was born in Okinawa and later moved to Hida after marrying her husband—a Hida native. Now, she has been living in Hida for 45 years. “It was my dream to share my hometown’s culture and dishes with the people of Hida,” she shared over the excited chatter of the evening’s guests.
At her izakaya, she highly recommends trying goya champuru (stir-fried bitter melon, tofu, spam, and scrambled eggs) and umibudo (a texturally exciting seaweed variety from Okinawa). In true Hida and Okinawa fashion, Ms. Shimada also suggests pairing the dish with awamori from Okinawa—if you can handle strong liquor—local Hida sake, or an alcoholic sour made with Okinawa fruits.
Hida’s izakaya culture can best be summed up in one word: “Nommunication,” which is a combination of the words nomu (to drink in Japanese) and communication. People in Hida love sake, which makes izakaya very important places for socializing. Coworkers, friends, and families gather to relax and talk. “Izakaya are excellent places to learn about Japanese culture,” Ms. Shimada shared.
“Hida’s locals are similar to people from Okinawa. They are kind and take care of each other,” she said genuinely before adding with a chuckle, “However, rumors spread quickly, too.” Ms. Shimada’s greatest joys in Hida are enjoying “nommunication” with her friends and facilitating cultural exchange between her two homes. She brings her Hida friends to Okinawa, and vice versa. One day, she would like to open an Okinawa Information Center in Hida.
For tourists, she thinks Hida is an ideal starting point to access many popular destinations, such as Kamikochi, Shirakawago, and Takayama.
After my three days in Hida, it became abundantly clear that Hida is special because of its people. The city’s preserved heritage, charming landscapes, culinary traditions, and friendly atmosphere are all thanks to residents’ deep love and appreciation for their home. The moment you set foot in Hida, you will feel like you are home.
Don’t take my word or the locals' word for it, though. Discover Hida for yourself.
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